My Nuts Are Getting Wet
Some of our most memorable moments in the Dordogne came from getting lost. On our way to find a walnut farm, we followed one of the myriad of hand-painted signs that mark local farms and purveyors. For what felt like miles we wound through the hills, forests, and down a narrow one lane muddy road until, poof, the signs disappeared. Despite our backtracking efforts (right), we never did find the walnut farm. But we did happen upon the smallest of the Bastides, medieval fortified towns, of the Dordogne called Molieres. It is also one of the unfinished bastide towns and is rumored to have a ghost. When we arrived on a rainy, drizzly fall day, we didn't see a ghost or much of anything for that matter. The streets were eerily quiet, the shops closed up for lunch time, and the lone arcade on the market square seemed to be holding some secrets. We walked through it and on a bench nearby, we spotted a crate of walnuts. We looked at them, curious how they arrived there, and were anxious to see who would rescue them from the increasing rain. Within minutes we heard the familiar shuffle of an old man too tired to lift his knees. In his adorable beret hat and purple sweater, he inched his way toward us (actually toward his walnuts). I grabbed my camera and told Laura, "This is it. This is the photo." Our photographer had stayed back to work on his own book so it was up to me to grab The One!!!. I set the light meter; I asked the nut guy in my best (worst) French if i could take his photo. He said "oui", but refused to stand still. He had another mission. Before I could click, and more importantly, focus, he started moving toward me, saying, in his best English, "Excuse me, my nuts are getting wet."
I ask you...Who can focus after a comment like that?!
Still, I love this (blurry) photo for the memories it brings. And he did rescue his nuts.
Moral of the story: 1. Getting lost is good. 2. Never let the real photographer stay behind. 3. Beware of getting in the way of a man and his wet nuts.
Modern Day Princess
Though she’s not Snow White, Wilna Wilkinson is a modern-day princess living a luminous life in this riverfront retreat. “Sometimes I have to pinch myself,” she admits in her lilting South African accent.
When she opens her door to us, the warmth of her heart and hearth is felt instantly. Wilna's walls and shelves are filled with paintings, books, and knick-knacks that tell of her years of traveling the globe, but there is no question the Château de Lalinde is her home. Though it looks as if she has lived here all her life, it was only two years ago that fate intervened and altered her life's course. During a holiday with friends who had moved in nearby, Wilna suggested they enjoy a nice dinner out. They immediately said, "We know the perfect little place on the river that you will love.’”
Their destination that evening was the Château de Lalinde and her friends were right—it was perfect and Wilna did love it. So much so that two years to the date of the dinner, she moved into the château she now calls home. Kismet.
“My being here is really serendipity,” Wilna says. “I had casually said to my friends that night as we dined under the stars ‘I would move here tomorrow if it were for sale.' The waiter must have overheard me because he said, ‘But Madame, the château is for sale.’” Even though she was not in the market for a castle (is anyone really?), Wilna explains that she was looking for a change. Read more about Wilna's fairy tale and the reasons she loves the Dordogne in: Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories. due out this fall by Silverback Books.
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